Making of Patola
The Process :
A Patola Saree takes 4 to 6 months to make, depending on how complicated the design is. The Kadamb patola is done in the Double ikat style, which is perhaps the most complicated textile design in the whole world. Each fabric consists of a series of warp threads and a single weft thread, which binds the warp threads together. Each one of the warp threads is tied and dyed according to the pattern of the saree, such that the knotted portions of the thread do not catch the colours. The result is that both sides of the saree look exactly alike as if it is printed on both sides with the same design, and can be worn either way.
Design and Colour :
The weaving is done on simple traditional handlooms, and the dyes used are made from vegetable extracts and other natural colours. Flowers, animals, birds and human figures form the basic design. Now a days, there are new geometrical designs using the vegetable dye as well as chemical dyes. Patola silk sarees with bright colours are also enriched with zardosi, kundan, sequins.
The patola is woven on a primitive hand operated harness loom made out of rosewood and bamboo strips. The loom lies at a slant, with the left side being lower than the right side. The bamboo shuttle is made to move to and from through warp shades. Each weft thread is thoroughly examined and matched with each part of the warp design pattern while weaving.